The skeletonized RO Jumbo Extra-Thin makes a comeback with a brand new mechanism.
1972-2022. Yes, Audemars Piguet’s most iconic watch, and one of the most iconic in the entire industry, the Royal Oak, is celebrating its 50th anniversary – although judging by the watch, it doesn’t reveal its age. As you might expect, the brand will use this anniversary as an opportunity to revamp some of its models, introduce new in-house movements, launch special editions…well, we’re talking about the entire 50-year collection. Following the replacement of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with the new 16202ST we show here, the brand has also announced the new Extra-Thin Openworked. In keeping with the tradition established for the 40th anniversary of this watch, it is time to discover the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin Skeleton Steel, aka 16204ST.
Openwork and Royal Oak
The whole idea of the Royal Oak skeleton movement is far from new. In fact, to this day, the Royal Oak collection includes more than 50 skeletonized models, and of course a variety of movements, styles, sizes and materials. But we’re talking about Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked here, a rarer variety in the brand’s collection.
The whole concept of skeletonization or skeletonization, the task of painstakingly manually removing material from the movement plates and bridges to reveal some of the internal mechanisms, is not new at AP. It used to be one of the specialized fields in the 1930s-1950s. This artistic craftsmanship resurfaced in the 1970s, especially with the Calibre 2120 – the same movement that has been fitted to the Royal Oak Ultra Thin since its inception. The cutout only appeared in the 1981 Royal Oak collection with a pendant version – ref. 5710BA – 1986 followed by ref. 25636 is equipped with an ultra-thin self-winding perpetual calendar Calibre 2120/2800.
The first Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin Skeleton was launched in 1992 as part of the 30th Anniversary Collection “Jubilee”. However, this reference 14811 is a one-of-a-kind model auctioned for the Foundation. It wasn’t until 2000 that several Jumbo models with the ultra-thin Calibre 2120 were introduced in very small series. In 2012, the brand returned to the skeletonized Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin, model 15203PT, in a limited edition of 40 pieces. Frame for 40th anniversary celebration. This model features a 39mm platinum case and is powered by the 5122 calibre. In 2014, a rose gold version (ref. 15204OR) was launched. Just like the brand did for the 40-year collection, the 50-year collection will also feature the new RO Jumbo Openworked.
So, this is the new Royal Oak Jumbo Slim Cutout. But when we’re talking about the 50-year series, you can easily imagine that Audemars Piguet not only re-released the previous model, but with some minor updates. In fact, the 16204ST remains a Royal Oak Treasure, in this case sharing its case, dimensions and proportions with the classic Closed Treasure 16202. But mechanically, that’s another story too.
So, before going into the details, let’s summarize everything you need to know about this Royal Oak Jumbo Slim Cutout 16204ST:
Classic Jumbo case, 39mm x 8.1mm, same as closed dial 16202
Same bracelet, same buckle, same bezel, same overall style
It is made of steel. Yes, unlike the 40th anniversary edition, Audemars Piguet has decided to stay true to the original material and offer Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked in the most anticipated material. Note that there is also an 18k rose gold version numbered 16204OR
It’s unlimited, even if it won’t be mass-produced
It features the new self-winding ultra-thin movement Calibre 7124, which is based on the new generation in-house produced Calibre 7121 introduced in the closed-dial Jumbo 16202
This is a watch without a date and its movement is very attention to detail
Royal Oak JUMBO Slim Cutout 16204ST
As you can see in the basics above, the Royal Oak Jumbo Slim Cutout 16204ST we’re showing you here is basically a cutout, undated version of the Royal Oak Jumbo Slimline 16202. So there is no difference regarding habilage. The case, bezel, crown, case back, bracelet and clasp are all identical. What changes have to do with the movement, you’ve guessed it, there’s no dial. replica watches for sale
Therefore, the case of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16204 is identical to that of the closed-dial 16202, which was introduced at the same time. This means the same case as the previous generation Jumbo 15202. At 39mm in diameter, it maintains the proportions used on the original 1972 Royal Oak Reference 5402. As an ultra-thin watch, the case height measures 8.1mm, which is the same thickness as the previous generation Jumbo and only a little thicker than the original model from 1972 – mainly due to the use of a sapphire caseback. The skeletonized 16204ST is still water resistant to 50 meters.
The iconic octagonal bezel with eight white gold screws is intact and still relies on the large polished bevel on its perimeter. The stainless steel case has a classic design, with a vertical brushed finish combined with the polished Royal Oak edge finish we’ve come to expect for no surprises. Honestly, about residency; we’re in familiar territory. It’s a thoughtful choice from Audemars Piguet, which wanted to keep the spirit of the original Jumbo. Perhaps there will be more bold versions in other ranges—automatic, chronograph, complications—but the Jumbo is a 50-year icon that deserves some respect, and the AP wants to keep that tradition going. Whether you like it or not… copy men watches
While on the classic Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin I would now talk about the dial and describe its petite Tapisserie pattern, there is no such thing here. The central part of the watch is entirely devoted to the display of the movement. Still, there are some interesting points. The movement consists of a tone-on-tone rhodium-plated inner bezel with a black minute track and faceted, short, luminous hour markers. The hands are executed in the same way and are actually bolder and more angular than the classic RO hands on the closed dial Jumbo. Most likely to accentuate the contrast with movement. The same goes for the choice of 18k rose gold for the hands and markers, although as with many fully skeletonized watches, legibility is not the primary quality of the Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked 16204ST.
Now let’s talk about the movement, the Calibre 7124. As Frank explained in his in-depth article on the new Jumbo 16202, at least for the Jumbo model, the main evolution of the 50th Anniversary Collection will be seen inside the case. ) 50 years later, the Royal Oak Jumbo model finally gets a modern mechanism developed and produced in-house. While the 16202 got the self-winding Calibre 7121, the Openworked 16204 got its skeleton sibling, the Calibre 7124. http://www.cheapestwrist.co
The Calibre 7121 and 7124 were developed in parallel, which means that the positions and geometries of the different components that equip the two movements are designed to create a harmonious and balanced skeletonized version. Both share the same mechanical architecture, which is ultra-slim in mind, but also more reliable and comfortable than the previous Calibre 2121. The 2.7mm Calibre 7124 – thinner than the one used in the closed-dial model due to the removal of the date mechanism – thus has a power reserve of 57 hours, albeit at a higher frequency of 4Hz. It is equipped with a modern slim pendulum mounted on a ball bearing, providing bidirectional winding. The balance wheel is equipped with an inertia block.
The Calibre 7124 differs from the 7121 firstly by the lack of a date, and secondly – obviously – by the skeletonized process used by the AP watchmakers. The process combines modern techniques with traditional decorating techniques, with the preliminary geometries of the main and bridge plates being CNC machined and electro-discharge machining (EDM) cut. These parts are then fully finished by the watchmaker, revealing no less than 324 polished V-corners – which, as you probably know, can only be done by hand. The result is an almost spider web of technical and geometric movements that make up the main components, namely the barrel and the balance. The caseback reveals the same overall design intent, with the use of mirrored transverse bridges for the balance and barrel.
In addition to the stainless steel 16204ST version shown here, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin Skeleton will also be available in 18k rose gold with a movement in slate grey for a contrasting finish.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK JUMBO EXTRA-THIN OPENWORKED
Case: Diameter 39mm x H8.1mm – Stainless steel case with polished finish – Octagonal bezel with 8 white gold screws – Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case back – 50m water resistance
Dial: Rhodium-plated skeleton movement – 18k rose gold applied indexes and Royal Oak hands with luminous coating – Rhodium-plated inner ring
Movement: Caliber 7124, Internal (skeleton, non-date version of 7121) – Automatic – 29.6mm x 2.7mm – 211 parts including 31 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 57 hours power reserve – hours and minutes
Bracelet: One-piece stainless steel bracelet with brushed and polished finish – folding clasp