This Patek Philippe watch was first launched in 2011 and wears titanium. It is a unique piece for Only Watch 2017.
The Reference 5208 triple complication watch demonstrates Patek Philippe’s superb skills in the field of grand complication watches. It brings together a minute repeater, a single-button chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar displayed along a curved hole. This is also one of the very few ultra-complex watches equipped with a self-winding mechanism. This highly complex functional combination is composed of 719 parts and is hand-made in accordance with the great traditions of Geneva.
Reference 5208T-010 is specially built for Only Watch 2017. It is the first and only version of this timepiece and is made of titanium, a metal that is rarely used in Patek Philippe. This unique piece features a blue dial with a handmade guilloche-like carbon fiber pattern, highlighting the manufacturer’s role as a protector of rare handicrafts. Through the back of the sapphire crystal glass, you can see the Calibre R CH 27 PS QI movement. The entire movement is treated with black rhodium-plated processing, giving it a unique appearance. The platinum miniature oscillating weight is decorated with handmade guilloches, and the decoration is the same as the dial. The blue Cordura strap echoes the color of the dial.
Patek Philippe’s innovation has laid two more milestones
With a new hairspring and a new dual time system, Patek Philippe once again demonstrated its dynamic power and rigorous technical attitude.
Since its establishment in the early 2000s, the Patek Philippe Advanced Research Department has been re-examining the basic principles of watchmaking. This laboratory, separate from its R&D department, is dedicated to the core of the watch. The escapement and regulating mechanism are the areas of its exploration. In particular, it takes advantage of the properties of silicon oxide-this is one of the first materials Patek Philippe uses its proprietary Silinvar® trademark.
The Patek Philippe Advanced Research Department is committed to research and development of practical applications. In the first six years of its establishment, it launched six different innovations, all of which have a place in various limited edition watches. Therefore, the brand demonstrated its design method for the escape wheel, balance spring, escapement, balance wheel and a complete system of these components. In 2017, the laboratory not only added one innovation, but also added two innovations. Both are integrated into one movement, which is an evolved version of the self-winding dual-time movement known to Patek Philippe enthusiasts: Calibre 324 SC FUS. It is placed in a new watch, Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650 “Patek Philippe Advanced Research”.
Center of gravity
The first innovation is a new version of the brand’s Spiromax® hairspring. It is related to the geometry of the component, which is a fundamental aspect that determines its performance. Patek Philippe now pairs its traditional outer boss (aka terminal curve, the thicker and wider protrusion of the spring blade) with the inner boss or initial curve. The purpose is to stabilize the center of gravity, which moves with the expansion and contraction of the balance spring. This center of gravity affects the balance shaft, where the most friction occurs and proves to be detrimental to accuracy. The addition of a second boss allows the movement to achieve a significant and quantifiable increase in accuracy, and the movement containing this innovation can be adjusted to an average speed of -1 to +2 seconds per day.
The 5650 is a limited edition of 500 pieces, which shows that this is not a special launch of a carefully adjusted concept, but a mature industrial project. Therefore, it shows real pragmatism, especially because the second innovative feature of Calibre 324 SC FUS is related to use and production. The original Calibre 324 SC FUS required a total of 37 components to handle the second time zone, two-way correction, and dual day/night display. The Patek Philippe Advanced Research Department has designed a new watch assembly that can use 25 parts individually. This compatible (flexible) mechanical device is processed from traditional watch steel and carefully processed in accordance with the brand’s customary standards. However, its geometry is extremely complicated. It replaces the pivot, the yoke,
This flexible component simplifies movement, optimizes its operation, and is also visible. Aquanaut Travel Time 5650 “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” is indeed the first model of Patek Philippe to provide a partial view of the movement. The brand usually hides its complex functions-even the tourbillon-under the dial, or all details except for the hollow are key factors in its appeal. In this case, the brand proudly shows off its ability to create sculptural components, symbolizing its ability to innovate. high quality replica watches