Remember Travolta? Remember Beckham? Remember the weird sexist color of a brand that, for a long time, seemed unable to be completely sure of who it was trying to make popular swiss watch for and how to talk to them? If you still do this, then maybe it’s finally time to forget this awkward period of ancient history, which is Breitling’s grand plan to quickly return to relevance. As Breitling CEO Georges Kern continued to distance his brand direction from his predecessor in the Schneider era, this time he relied on the brand’s own original founding manager for inspiration to generate three new references: tradition The hand-wound chronograph, “rattrapante” or minute-second chronograph and complete calendar chronograph form the newly named Premier Heritage series.
The original Breitling Premier series was more or less the banner of Kern when he assumed the leadership role of the brand in 2017. Premier revolves around the internal movement and uses the original design and more complex high-quality finishes to create a more mature Breitling and return to form-the brand’s new integrated product top series at that time. ABTW’s editor-in-chief Bilal Khan called the first prime minister “a thoughtful, detailed chronograph that exceeded expectations” in his long-term review in 2019. This new derivative series inspired by tradition seems to continue to follow the same formula, despite adopting a more classic medieval style, echoing the exquisite original Premier watch launched by Willy Breitling in the 1940s.
Here, we have brightly colored, beautifully rendered dials (which typography nerds will appreciate), applied Arabic numerals and a more traditional chronograph movement execution method—perhaps just like Willie Breitling himself once wanted Like that. Yes, this is indeed a complete calendar. In fact, this is a very smart product, far from the Breitling that many people may have known, but as the brand continues to mature and peel off the multiple layers of its backup catalog, we learn some things that Breitling scholars have always known: Before the jet age, before sports diving became mainstream, the brand enjoyed a period of very elegant and classic chronographs in the middle of the last century that fully embraced the more traditional values of the watchmaking industry.
Regardless of the design intent, modern Breitling watches are more inclined to express sports, so in order to combine the two value systems of two completely different eras, we slightly enlarged the case (standard manual winding chronograph is 40 mm, The standard manual-winding chronograph is 42 mm). Minutes and seconds and full calendar variants) and 100 meters water resistance. The latter feature is a particularly interesting development-how many complete calendar chronographs can you name, whose water resistance exceeds the insignificant 30 or 50 meters? This special combination of complications is already a relatively rare combination (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani, Blancpain and IWC all have similar things), but it is wrapped in a beautiful salmon dial, and has enough water resistance to make Its becoming a suitable everyday wearer makes this particular reference an interesting proposition.
Although the Premier Datora 42 full calendar (refresh: hour, minute, second, week, date, month and moon phase) driven by the automatic movement B25 may be the focus of most this week, sneaky program stealers may be the entrance -Class Premier B09 Chronograph 40 pays tribute to Leon Breitling’s earliest chronograph, which was the first to use a tachymeter to measure speed. A seemingly simple thing, wrapped in a truly gorgeous “pistachio” green dial, this reference is powered by the B09 manual winding chronograph movement manufactured by Breitling. So far we have seen it launched in a few products, including Navitimer reissue and AVI reference in 1959. 765 resent.
The third option in the trio-the B15 Duograph 42 uses Breitling’s B15 movement, which is interesting because it is essentially a B03 split-second chronograph movement, even though it is manually wound. This allows designers to produce functionally similar watches in a more wear-resistant 42mm package. As with the other two new options in the series, you will have stainless steel and precious red gold options to choose from-each with its own unique dial color and color matching strap.
Models: Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (ref. AB0930D31L1P1 in stainless steel, ref. RB0930371G1P1 in red gold), Premier B15 Duograph 42 (ref. AB1510171C1P1 in stainless steel, ref. RB1510251B1P1 in red gold), Premier B25 Datora 42 (ref. AB2510201K1P1 in stainless steel, ref. RB2510371G1P1 in red gold)
Dimensions: 40 & 42mm
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Case Material: Stainless steel or 18k red gold
Movement: Breitling Calibre B09 (handwound column wheel-actuated chronograph), Breitling Calibre B15 (handwound column wheel-actuated split second chronograph), Breitling Calibre B25 (automatic chronograph with complete calendar)
Power Reserve: 70 hours for B09 and B15 calibres, 48 hours for B25
Strap/Bracelet: Matching alligator with folding clasp